Maureen Nagle
Cornelius O Brien, Member of Parliament, was a good landlord at a difficult time in our history, the Great Famine. But who was he?
An entry in the Who’s Who of British M.P.s reads:-
4 North St., Westminster, London; 20 Summerhill, Dublin; Birchfield, Ennistymon.
Son of Henry O’Brien, Esq. of Birchfield, Co. Clare by Helen, daughter of Donough O’Callaghan, Esq. of Kilgorey, Co. Clare. Born at Birchfield 1782. Married 1816, Margaret, daughter of Peter Long of Waterford and relict of James O’Brien of Limerick. A solicitor in Ireland from 1811, a magistrate for Clare, a Liberal in favour of the Repeal of the Union with Ireland, tenants’ rights and vote by ballot. Sat for Clare from 1832 to 1847 when he was an unsuccessful candidate. Regained seat July 1852. Retired 1857. Died 1857.
During his lifetime he built many private and public buildings around Liscannor in County Clare. Through his activities he improved the local infrastructure, provided employment and gave access to education. The following account looks at some of the structures left on our landscape as a result of this man’s enterprise in the 1840s.
O’ Brien’s Bridge
This triple span, elliptic arched stone cut bridge, spans the river Inagh at right angles, close to where it enters the sea. Cornelius O’Brien had it built in 1836 to cross a dangerous fording point on the river. It greatly improved transport in the area linking Liscannor with the rest of the country.
Grave at Kilmacreehy
Located in Kilmacreehy graveyard is an elevated stone tomb with a wrought iron and cut stone surround which bears the inscription:
“Erected by Cornelius O Brien MP
To the memory of his friend John Collins Esq. M.D.
A good man respected for his learning and loved for his benevolence and virtue by all who had the
happiness of his acquaintance
Here he sleeps well by the seashore wherein he loved dwell
February 16th 1841.”
Docks at Liscannor
The harbour in Liscannor comprises of two cut-stone piers enclosing a central basin with three slipways. It is first recorded on Pelhams map in 1787. Interesting features that survive today are :
Inset stepped sandstone walls
One of the three slipways is cobblestone
Weathered sandstone mooring posts
Cornelius O’Brien sought funds to improve the harbour. Fishing and farming were how the local population eked out a living at that time. Quarrying of Liscannor stone was also a thriving industry. The dock played an integral part in the shipping of these to many places. In the United Kingdom they were used to pave the streets of Liverpool, Manchester and London. The development of concrete at the start of the First World War saw the decline of this industry.
Seamount house (Private property)
This two storey palatial residence was part of Cornelius O’Brien’s 10,000 acre estate. It was leased by Bishop Fallon, a Roman Catholic during the 1800s. Accidentally burnt in the early part of the 20th century, today the ruins of the outhouses surrounded by castellated walls and accessed through an archway are still visible.
Also a one storey, three bay, hip roofed gate lodge, survives.
Birchfield House (Private property)
Birchfield was the home of Cornelius O’Brien. Upon his marriage in 1816, he renovated the family home. Sadly the house is now in ruins. It was a five bay house with 3 storey hexagonal towers at each of its four corners. One of which is still standing. Behind this south facing house, there were yards and utility buildings surmounted by castellations.
Stone walls
Local folklore reports that Cornelius had a wager to build a mile long wall which would be one inch thick. How could this be possible? Cleverly he built a wall of Liscannor flags with the flags standing up on edge. He won.
St Bridget’s Well School
Cornelius obtained funding and donated the land for the construction of this school in 1845.
The school is built of stone and the walls are rendered. It has a slate roof and Georgian style windows. Gabled wings project at each end with a canted bay window is set into each gable.
The boys and girls classrooms were in separate wings with separate entrances. The Master had accommodation in the central block. March 1847 school roll documented 110 boys and 106 girls.
O’Briens Column
In 1854 a unanimous decision was made by a local committee to erect a testimonial as a mark of appreciation for the efforts of Cornelius O’Brien to improve the living conditions of his tenants, encourage their education and provide visitor facilities at the Cliffs.
Public donations were raised and the result was a free standing, cut stone monument built of local limestone which stands next to St Bridget’s Well. It is a fluted Doric column surmounted by an urn and set on a square profile plinth. Despite the inscribed date (14 October 1853) it was not completed until after his death.
St Bridget’s Well and Graveyard
Local folklore tells us that Cornelius was sick in London and he sent for holy water from St Bridget’s Well. When he recovered, he improved the holy well by providing seating, shelter and planting trees.
Lewis Topographical Dictionary, 1837 records:
The residence of Cornelius O’Brien who has much improved his estate and the condition of his tenantry by the erection of neat slated cottages and farm buildings and by other judicious arrangements; – a holy well dedicated to St. Brigid and much resorted to by the peasantry, which, at Mr. O’Brien’s expense, has been surrounded by tasteful plantations and rustic seats.
Cornelius’ son John, died in India in 1856 aged 26. A family mausoleum was built in the adjoining graveyard for his burial. Five months later Cornelius died and is buried in the same tomb. Five of Cornelius’s six children did not live past their thirties.
The O’Brien crest is carved over the door.
Ardnacraa Well
In the 1840s this spa well was reported to be used as a meeting place for unemployed agricultural workers. Above the central arch can be seen to O’Brien crest.
O’ Briens tower at the Cliffs of Moher
Built by Cornelius in 1835, at the highest point of the Cliffs of Moher, this tower provides magnificent views south along the Clare coast, north towards the Burren and west towards the Aran Islands and Galway Bay. The building consists of two adjoining cylindrical towers with a single bay single storey battlemented screen wall to the side with a doorway. Over the doorway is the O’Brien Family crest.
Cornelius also built stables and an iron round table for picnics. The tower was the first ‘visitor centre at the Cliffs. Today it is part of the Cliffs of Moher Visitor Experience.
Thank you
To the Mc Donagh, Family Birchfield
Frances Madigan, Ennistymon
Martin Barry, Drinagh
References
Comber, Henry. “Cornelius O’Brien of Birchfield (1782 – 1857)”. Clare County Library. Retrieved june 21 2023http//clarelibrary.ie/eolas/coclare/people/corlenius-obrien.htm
https://www.clarecoco.ie/services/planning/publications/heritageconservation/north-clare-road-bridge-survey-2015-22291.pdf 4th june 2023
Weir Hugh W.L Ballinakella Press Whitegate Co Clare, 1986 p242
Weir Hugh W.L Ballinakella Press Whitegate Co Clare, 1986 p 42
Wilson P. The cliffs of Moher & the O’Brien legacy. The follies trust 2018 p 69
Barry ,M The cliffs of Moher & the O’Brien legacy. The follies trust 2018 P16 https://www.clarelibrary.ie/eolas/coclare/people/cornelius_obrien/landlord.htm
Wilson P. The cliffs of Moher & the O’Brien legacy. The follies trust 2018 p70
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